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Ukraine tributes and Elie Saab’s darker side feature at Paris Fashion Week

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Ukraine tributes and Elie Saab's darker side feature at Paris Fashion Week
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Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood showcased a veritable commedia dell’arte on Saturday at Paris Fashion Week with a mad hat collection inspired by the theatre form, while Lanvin continued to go from strength to strength and Elie Saab experimented with darker tones.

Here are some highlights from the ready-to wear autumn/winter 2022 shows. One Ukrainian was included. designer, who escaped Kyiv, thinks it’s important to protest against the war — especially within the fashion community.

A sartorial tribute in honor of Ukraine

As Paris Fashion Week continues, many attendees’ thoughts remain with Ukrainians suffering amid the escalation of the conflict with Russia — and with some creatives unable to attend because of the crisis, such as milliner Ruslan Baginskiy from Kyiv.

This is especially true for the one Ukrainian designerLilia Litkovskaya made it to Paris. She is reportedly the only Ukrainian. designerAttending the shows this season after fleeing Kyiv with her 2-year-old daughter, but without a collection or a team.

Litkovskaya, in tribute to her peers, flew the Ukrainian flag at Palais de la Bourse as part the Tranoi fashionTrade fairs are held parallel to the fashion week.

As part of an official anti-war demonstration, she stood in front the Marianne statue at the Place de la Republique on Saturday.

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“My main message is that the fashion community must show what’s going on in our country,”She spoke. “They have to say to stop the war. This war concerns everyone. We need support from everyone.

“It was terrible and difficult and we were stuck on the border for many hours, but that’s zero compared with what’s going on in our country, because our children, men, women are being killed.”

Elie Saab has the latest trend

The Lebanese designerOn Saturday, he went darker, being known for his pastel palettes and va-va voom silhouettes.

Elie Saab tried eyelets this season to add black to the trend. The golden holes were worn over black pantsuits. The V-neck — another autumn trend — was also featured, first on floaty black silk gowns, and then as a scallop shape, which scooped out the torso with a beautiful Grecian gold hem.

Shoulders were rounded or lopped off, in another nod to the season’s styles. This collection sometimes seemed to lack a common visual theme.

Lanvin: Sialelli makes magic with Lanvin

He’s been described as the “providential outsider”Lanvin was saved from the creative wilderness by this, after his stinging departure designerAlber Elbaz and a series of subpar replacements.

Now, Bruno Sialelli — a virtual unknown before being tapped in 2019 — continues to weave his quirky magic into the age-old brand. It will likely come as a relief for many, especially the French — given the special place the maison holds in their hearts as their oldest continually operating fashion house.

Autumn/winter’s co-ed showExplore big shoulders and bright colors.

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The collection began with a traffic-stopping fur coat in cadmium-blue, worn with a little black dress with plunging V neck. The jumpsuit featured dramatic, curved shoulder pads that frame the silhouette like a tent. Humour — the terrain of Elbaz — was also on the menu, with fun prints on fur coats that resembled a funky mushroom, or a coated femme fatale seen from behind.

It was a safe, but highly profitable collection that fulfilled all the right boxes.

Kronthaler goes theatrical at Vivienne Westwood

Westwood’s husband and creative right-hand man Kronthaler was in a typical burlesque mood with Saturday’s eccentric fare that mixed 1970s styles with the medieval — explaining that for autumn/winter, he intended to pay homage to the world of the stage.

“I wanted to make a collection about the theatre, the commedia dell’arte,”He was referring specifically to the early theatrical genre that originated in Italy in 16th century. It featured hyperbolic, often grotesque, characters. “I’ve been very inspired by this since being a teenager,”He said.

Model Bella Hadid, centre, and designer Vivienne Westwood, right, on the catwalk during the Vivienne Westwood womenswear autumn/winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 5, 2022. Getty Images

Cut to billowing funeral gowns, tracksuits in harlequin-diamond patterns, corseted dresses, and gold truncated shoes that screamed boots-meetsglam rock.

Though Pulcinella, the commedia dell’arte’s black-masked clown, did not make an appearance, masks, ruching and draping that inspired the character’s famed looks were all featured in droves.

Draping — a house signature — was also a big theme, alongside layering and intentionally contrasting styles.

US designer Rick Owens, who himself aligns with Kronthaler’s eccentric fashion-forward aesthetic, applauded vigorously at the front row

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Marine Serre’s visual deceptions

Marine Serre, the Paris Fashion Week’s new darling, used clashing patterns with skill to create dynamic visual effects.

The French designerBalenciaga is where Veronica, aged 30, got her start in life.

A fashionMany of the looks that managed discord were forward-looking. A red tartan inset on long coat looked like it was flowing into a Prince of Wales look, with flashes of horsehair in the sleeves. A long winter scarf made of many clashing, color-rich patterns was worn as a sash.

This 48-piece collection had many moments of humor. The large, red velvet face cover made of devore velvet, evoked a glamorous Spider-Man. It also made a comment on the pandemic and how masks have become an integral part of our daily lives.

Updated: March 6, 2022 at 7:38 AM

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