Get ready for Thom Browne like you’ve never seen him before.
Minimalism! From the guy who is obsessed with couture-level craft and corsets, whose 2019 Met Gala dress for Cardi B took 35 people over 2,000 hours to make.
“I love big, dramatic pieces, but the work on these more simple-looking pieces, it’s the most special work I’ve done and people need to see there is this level happening in New York,”The designer said during a preview of his spring 2022 collection, which he’s showing in New York instead of Paris to support partner Andrew Bolton, curator of the “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” exhibition opening next week at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.
“There are so many interesting and talented people here and the world needs to see that again,”Browne.
American clothing has become lighter and more wearable over time.
Without revealing too much (hence the colorful tulle he shrouded models — and himself — in for the WWD shoot), Browne shared that the runway show American clothing has become lighter and more wearable over time. He will also demonstrate his passion for quality tailoring. This season, there will be very little embellishment.
Browne was mum when it came to his contributions to Costume Institute, to the American vocabulary as it were. He preferred to leave it up to Bolton, who declined to comment.
The designer has certainly changed the way men dress in a big way, giving your father’s gray suits fashion Cred, LeBron James and his NBA teammates in shorts and men in skirts. Photo by Dan Levy “Schitt’s Creek,”To “Stranger Things”Actor David Harbour in Thom Browne fall 2020 ad campaign.
Thom Browne, Dan Levy
In July, Lyst’s report of the hottest fashion items of 2021’s second quarter ranked Browne’s men’s wear skirt in the top 10.
Skirts for men are a tradition that has been around since ancient times and have been on the runways since at most the 1980s.
“But the way I approached it was not from a fashion point of view,”Browne stated. “I wanted to normalize it. Whether it was the skirts or putting guys in things more stereotypically thought of for women, I want to show it looks normal, or just good.”
Harbour was photographed with Anh Duong in fall campaign. “American Gothic”Vibrations “He’s just a regular guy. That was one of the reasons I wanted to work with him, too, because even though our business has grown so much, there are people who still think I only do clothes for skinny little people. And there’s so much more to it.…When you make something really well and it’s based on something familiar, that’s more challenging than making something big and fashion,”Browne stated.
Thom Browne’s latest project features Ahn Duong and David Harbour.
On the women’s side, Browne has had some missteps over the years, including showing models with arms bound behind their backs, in hobble skirts and punishing shoes, which led some to criticize the work as misogynist.
“Look, sometimes you may cross over. But the last thing I take from criticism is fear,”He said. (Notably the Thom Browne world is becoming less freaky and friendlier in recent seasons with its slew of animal-shaped handbags and expanding selection of cozy wear cardigans and sweats that have four bars, nipping at Ralph Lauren’s heels.
Browne said lately he hasn’t been thinking much about gender at all. All genders can model his spring collection on the runway. “We live in an amazing world that it just doesn’t matter.”
The show He will also have a story arc worthy to be compared to his recent films, such as the jewel box of a tale that stars Lindsey Vonn, an Olympic skier.
Lindsey Vonn on set in Utah for Thom Browne’s fall 2021 collection film.
“Films will always be an idea we toy with, but this had to be in person.…And I wanted to get back to doing it,”The runway showman said so.
Browne will be celebrating 20 years in business 2023. Browne is proud to see his former employees leading other brands as he looks back.
“They are like my kids…and I hope what they learned from me is to make sure they are true to themselves and create their own point of view that will live on its own,”Browne spoke of Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, Paris, and Jackson Wiederhoeft who launched his Brooklyn-based line with his own name. “And to make sure the quality is good.”
Browne’s business has been going gangbusters since being acquired by the Ermenegildo Zegna Group in 2018. Rodrigo Bazan, chief executive officer, has overseen the company’s annual revenues, which now exceed $400 million. There are 75 retail stores worldwide. designer
“Rodrigo is one of those new-generation CEOs, incredibly strategic and really sensitive to the creative side. He understands what I do and I understand what he does, and he’s been hugely influential for the growth of the business and where we are now.”
Bazan doesn’t get involved with designBut “appreciates everything that’s being designed,”Browne. “He knows there is a reason for all of it. Of course, he has an intelligently commercial side, as he should, but he’s open and curious and interested in doing it the right way. That’s why he’s been with me for five years.”
Having recently launched children’s wear and performance athleticwear, Browne isn’t afraid of growth, even factory outlet-level growth. “I want to be as big as we possibly can but I want to do it our way.”
Thom Browne children’s wear.
Beauty? Beauty? “All of it,”He said. Browne has already purchased the furniture for his retail stores. It is all available for sale. “There’s something so good about how we’ve grown because it feels still so true to that original idea. Every season, things keep getting better and better.”
Will the fashion Industry will celebrate his 50th Anniversary in Central Park with Double TB Ranch burgers
“Well, I definitely want to be around,”Browne laughed, but he did plan to return to Europe. showFuture collections
But first, it’s the runway at New York Fashion Week on Saturday followed by the Met Gala on Monday.
Browne will host a 10 person table at the gala. “It’s a really good mix,”He spoke highly of his guests of all ages.
The designershould know that he has attended almost every gala over the years. “I love seeing the day through Andrew’s eyes. It’s not my day, it’s his day. He is and always will be my date, no matter who we bring to the table.”
And though he has never been cornered by Kanye, and wasn’t in that infamous elevator, it’s still a heady scene, Browne said: “You know every single person in the room but you don’t know any of them. And when you look at the stairs, I don’t know what it’s like at Cannes, but it’s a pretty loaded moment. All I can think is, ‘Don’t trip, don’t trip, don’t trip!”’
Cardi B in custom Thom Browne attire at the 2019 Met Gala