At Paris Fashion Week, Thom Browne explores the creative horizons of the tailored suit
… the angelic and fantastic dream that led me home …
the thom browne man and woman collection for fall 2021
Thom Browne seals its link with traditional tailoring in a collection that is an ode to the elegance of black suit. A choice that seems to fit into what we would call a trend, with designers proposing a timeless fashion anchored to the principles of ‘classic’ clothing – it offers security, a fixed point for a world whose certainties have been undermined. Minimizing to offer comfort, however, is not the philosophy that Thom Browne applies in making his fall-winter 2021 collection.
His is an exploration of the potential of fabric, analysis without preconceptions of a predefined form that is dismembered and reassembled in a new chimera. Here the couturier is a surgeon who studies the anatomy of a patient to whom fashion has always prescribed various therapies: fluid fabrics to soften their rigidity, bright colors to break up the formal rigor, embroideries and décor to revive the complexion and give it a more feminine face. In short, a contamination of pure beauty. Thom Browne, on the contrary, it does not change it – it amplifies it, reduces it, enlarges it, narrows it, pushes it to the extreme to induce it to enhance every single seam, every lapel, every hem.
embroidery and applications mr. and mrs. thom,
twirl over cashmere, silk taffeta, mohair and fair isle lace,
playing with scenic padding in winter toile,
along with drawstring details, city badges and brass applications …
The end result is a succession of visions in black and white: the collar of the jacket is lowered to the height of the shoulders, in a soft Rococò-inspired drape; there shirt it no longer just peeks out from under the buttoning, but overflows over the sleeves of a vest in round and symmetrical puffs; the same accessory is hybrid, with a shoe that combines theankle boot to the ski boot. Finally, feminine and masculine, couture and sportswear, are no longer divided, but come together in the combination of patchwork with total-white knitwear woven and sewn alongside black pleated silk.
The only discordant aspect in a season that can boast an impeccable consistency, a maxi dress in gold lamé, a vintage fiber that preserves the quality of something that no longer exists, and that the designer wanted to use to infuse the collection with an extra pinch of reverie. To present the collection during the Paris Fashion Week 2021, a semi-animated short film, with sketch men drawn by Thom Browne and la ski champion Lindsey Vonn, slipping on the snow between models-obstacles dressed in the maison’s creations.
a nod from hector,
a limo bag made for a puppy in formal clothes,
a friendly trolley, baguettes in the shape of ski goggles, a doctor’s bag to trunk
all in black grained leather …
Waking up from the dream, far from the idyll of that nature of which we currently have to deprive ourselves, the protagonist falls asleep in her bed, in her daydreams, longing for fun. It does this with the same principle in mind that Thom Browne he tightens in designing his clothes: travel, as well as the trend of the season, is the leisure that restores us from fatigue, that lifts the soul, refreshing its vital energy. However, it is the return that reassures us, that awaits us, however it goes, as well as that suit that we keep for years in the wardrobe: wearing a suit is like coming home.