Courtesy Of Chloé

There are no pants in sight at Gabriela Hearst’s first show for Chloé. The designer, who was announced as creative director in December 2020, heralds the same femininity woven in the house codes of the Parisian atelier, founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952. Hearst’s new reign marks a quiet but remarkable shift that comes with a natural ease. While this may be her first collection, it looks and feels excitingly familiar.

Both Hearst and Chloé’s known love affair with ’70s markers are on full display. Elevated patchwork is seen in both leather skirts and quilted trenches. Knitwear, a Hearst staple, is seen through the Chloé lens in marled maxis, striped ponchos and pointelle dresses. Chloé’s signature scalloping is reworked and edged on aprons.

The changing of the guard is felt most notably in Hearst’s concerted sustainability efforts, values which she holds dearly at her namesake label. For her new tenure at Chloé, she’s doubling down. A sustainability plan outlining objectives for 2025 has accelerated with a new timeline of one year. Eco-friendly suppliers are at the ready, from production to packaging, with 20 percent of the ready-to-wear collection manufactured by World Fair Trade Organization members. The brand is also shifting from the use of synthetic fibers like polyester in favor of earth-friendly raw materials like organic silk and recycled cashmere. For handbags, Hearst revisited the Edith silhouette, the first Chloé handbag she ever personally owned. Staying true to her vision, fifty vintage bags were repurposed to create one-of-a-kind styles.

As Hearst said in the brand’s press release, “new isn’t always better,” but this runway show proves otherwise. Her new collection is pretty damn good.

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