At Milan Fashion Week 2021, Marni presents an artistic interpretation of fashion
An impressionism on the contrary that of Marni, which from the presentation en plein air of the catwalk transports us to the intimacy of the home and to a lunch with friends. Everything takes place in an improvised setting, a house that is a bedroom and then a corridor, in an alternation of psychedelic shots. Wu Tsang directs the film that replaces the show on site, and the result is that of a hallucination between dream, nightmare and vision.
For theautumn-winter 2021, Francesco Risso rethink the style of the maison in a pictorial key, breaking the dividing opinion that has always separated, but not opposite, art and fashion. A deconstruction of shapes and colors that of the creative director, who thinks of exaggerated volumes, torn details and dégradé shades to link the fabric to the canvases of Mark Rothko and to the socio-political vision of clothing by Michelangelo Pistoletto in its Venus of the Rags.
The mood is that of a clothing in revolt, which rejects the label and the limits to indulge in excess: i outerwear they are oversized quilted down jackets, a hybrid design of jacket and stole; there sneaker embraces the long tip of 70s footwear, upsetting its traditional silhouette. The dress is a cross between the wardrobe of an odalisque and that of a punk rock girl in 60s London, who sports crystals and kitsch (but not too much) bijoux, with a gold-colored chain and red mushrooms as pendants.
The same palette reminiscent of the acid and fluorescent shades of a British mural, with green, purple and pink alternating with silver and burgundy. Touch of classicism in the bags, wristwatch and in a dark and shiny brown, a wardrobe discovery of the ancestors that still remains current today but leavened in oversized dimensions. Mixing a principle of vintage fashion and futuristic experimentation, Marni confers on the Milan Fashion Week 2021 a gothic and at times subversive touch, an invitation to a stylistic revolt and the unhinging of the balance of form, proposing garments that are difficult to wear, difficult to understand, but necessary to enter a fashion that is no longer clothing, but a work of art.