In a short interview on Zoom, Jonathan Anderson tells Vogue about the new collection JW Anderson autumn winter 2021, presented through a series of photographic posters created in collaboration with Juergen Teller, wrapped in a letter written personally by the designer.
“I don’t really believe in the idea of a segmented fashion week right now. I wanted to present the collection in print and we did it as soon as we were ready», Anderson replies honestly when we investigate the timing of the presentation of the collection. Previously, the British designer presented his brand’s collections during London and Paris Fashion Weeks.
“It is very difficult for me to process something on a very small screen. I need that tactile thing, I need to see things in front of me believe it. Many things will be forgotten in this period because they were digital only ». Anderson continues with the format adopted a few seasons ago for the presentation of the JW Anderson fall winter 2021 women’s collection 19 double-sided posters alternate looks with images of two artists and their works: From me Magdalene Odundo – with whom Anderson curated the 2017 Disobedient Bodies exhibition – e Shawanda Corbett, discovered during the lockdown at the Corvi-Mora gallery in London. The portraits of Magdalene and Shawanda, the images of their ceramics, the collaboration with the collection and the JW Anderson looks are all presented together in 61 images curated by Juergen Teller.
“The most representative look of the collection is the “suspended” knitwear, the shape is very fluid and we didn’t use any padding, it actually has to do with volume but in reality the effect is obtained with a light fabric inside ». For Anderson, the collection is an attempt to reduce everything to beauty, silhouette and pose. The exploration of volume is a recurring theme in the JW Anderson collections and for fall winter 2021 it takes shape in knitwear with totemic and enveloping shapes.
The collaboration with the two artists is also realized in a series of limited edition blankets. «I was observing the artists of the 30s and 40s, talents like Mirò who made many tapestries. I thought it was nice to keep the images of Magdalene and Shawanda true to the original artwork but, at the same time, tactically change them. Furthermore, I think there is something interesting about the blanket in terms of emotion. Ultimately the blanket is something that characterizes most people’s homes. I think it reflects our being at home. “
Speaking of accessories from the JW Anderson fall winter 2021 collection, the designer confirms what are already our favorite pieces. “I love the sparkly Wellington-style ankle boots with the chain on top. They are very ostentatious, I like that we are a bit ridiculous. Among the bags of the season we redid the “twist” model, it was a bag we tried to make seven years ago but, this time, the result is finally what I wanted, we had eight months to really concentrate on construction ».
Thinking about the future of fashion Jonathan leaves us with a thought: «If we think that when we come out of this pandemic we will go back to doing the same things we did before, we are all making fun of ourselves. We have to rebuild this industry, because it doesn’t work, it doesn’t matter if you are a big brand or a small brand. I think we are in a very different moment where nothing makes sense, there is no temporal candor. Maybe in September we could go back to a structure of some kind, but it depends on how we will navigate until then ».