If there is one thing that is truly inaccessible, in the small, exclusive world of fashion shows, it is backstage of Prada. It was in pre-Covid times, let alone now, with an ongoing global pandemic. However, this season the brand headed by the most celebrated creative duo of the moment – Miuccia Prada & Raf Simons – decided to open the doors of the top secret behind the scenes set up in the Foundation to the editorial staff of Vogue. The target? Telling the show from another perspective, in a video of a few minutes, with two models – Hallie and Fatou – transformed for the occasion into the perfect interpreters of a new one Pradaness.
When we arrive in front of the gate of largo Isarco 2, the entrance to the cultural center designed by Rem Koolhaas, there is an unusual silence. To begin with, there is no traffic around. No blue cars, no taxi lines. Not even the shadow of maddened people. There is a lack of photographers and models, directors, journalists, buyers. The Light Bar, where last year they found themselves drinking coffee too My Goth is Willy Vanderperre, is closed. Nothing, from the outside, suggests that filming of the most anticipated show of the Foundation is underway within the walls of the Foundation Milan fashion week.
The fashion show is recorded in the spaces of the Depot Prada fall winter 2021 2021. The set, designed as usual by the studio I LOVE, is made up of a series of multi-textured rooms in bright colors, in marble or upholstered with faux fur. They are the same used in January to present Possible Feelings, the men’s collection which emphasized the need for sensations and the pleasure of tactility. “Can you caress the pink walls?”Is the question that no one has the courage to ask.
In one of the soft colored rooms we meet Hallie Hummer is Fatou Samb, the new faces selected from the precious roster of Ashley Brokaw, historic casting director of Prada. They wear two of the most representative looks of the collection, made of layers, mixes of prints and materials. Under Hallie’s arm the new one Prada Cleo bag, black, in a brand new maxi version. Hands hidden by long snug nappa gloves, complete with a mini pocket on the back. On their feet they wear both stretch cuissard boots with platform – in colored leather or fabric – which everyone, right now, is probably already talking about.
The collection Possible Feelings II: Transmute, the third signed jointly by Mrs. Prada and Mr. Simons, contains a new dialogue on today, onidea of change and transformation. It’s a current reflection on the role of clothing, intended not only as a free expression of oneself and a reassuring instrument of protection, but also as means of breaking conventions typical of fashion. L’analysis of canonical opposites – simplicity and complexity, elegance and practicality, limitation and freedom – is the first step towards the exploration of a new language made up of conceptual and material contradictions.
It is a reversal of universal uses and customs, the transmutation of the primary function of a leader as well as of its ideal composition. The formality of the suit is unhinged with strategic cuts, the tailored coats are covered with sequins, the tight-fitting jumpsuits become evening dresses and the even more symbolic “The Wrap” – L’casing, literally, from the verb wrap, to wrap -, already the protagonist of last season, it becomes the subject of new structural and material experiments. The body is covered in all its parts by long johns turtleneck in elastic jacquard knit, presented as a second skin to emphasize the idea of softness and comfort associated with action and movement.
Knitted polo shirts, soft fur coats, double-breasted jackets and oversized bomber jackets, midi skirts and flare pants complete the looks, covered by multiple layers that build a comfortable, rigorously elegant shelter, sometimes embellished with all-over applications and quite animated by that wide variety of geometric and floral patterns which over the years we have learned to consider an integral part of Prada’s visual lexicon. The logo, in its emblematic triangular shape, represents the element that indissolubly binds the entire path, using the Symbole earrings and in the micro pockets applied on accessories and capes.
The Canadian musician and DJ Richie Hawtin returns to sign the soundtrack of the show – the third signed for Prada with his venerable pseudonym Plastikman – giving life to a composition that intensifies the senses and invites movement, evoking the dance floor as much as reflective inner worlds.