Nicola Brognano talks to Vogue about the new Blumarine Fall Winter 2021 collection, showcased with a digital runway show at Milan Fashion Week. Brognano welcomes us into the Riccardo Grassi showroom in Milan for a preview of the collection on the eve of the official presentation to the press.
“The inspiration for the collection comes from early 2000s fashion and style icons, like Paris Hilton and Britney Spears”, says the designer, named creative director of the label in February 2020. “This season I wanted to bring into focus what I love and was already present in my first Blumarine show. With the show’s video [directed by Harley Weir and styled by Lotta Volkova] we wanted to describe the transition from being “girly” to being a woman who’s aware of her sensuousness. ” Actually, his vision for Fall Winter 2021 is sharper and more fine-tuned than his previous collection. Infused with a 2000s glamorous pop kind of vibe, the collection is sexy, fresh and alluring, livened up by vibrant and saturated hues that revisit Blumarine’s codes in tune with the spirit of our time.
Roses are reworked as digital motifs, sometimes abstract, or as liquid and pictorial watercolor patterns. They are printed on bell-bottomed, low-waisted denim pants; embroidered and appliquéd – in macramé- on show-stopping sheer tulle dresses; on the cropped BluVi sweater and on big cable knit cardigans with a faux fur collar. “The whole runway collection features faux fur detailing,” Brognano explains. “One of my favorite looks is the tulle bodysuit with the large rose embroidery, teamed with low-waisted denim pants, dyed and embroidered, styled with a wide crystal belt and a satin beret, like the ones Paris Hilton used to wear.”
The intarsia knitwear, coated with metallic lacquering or crocheted to get a lingerie effect, is teamed with animal print denim or embellished with crystal studs, while the abbreviated pastel-hued draped dresses are worn with over-the-knee, lace-up high- heel sandals.
“The butterfly is the new symbol of Blumarine, alongside the rose, to express the need for the lightness we are lacking in this period”, the designer explains. In its printed or embroidered incarnations, the butterfly highlights Blumarine’s focus on the sensuous flair that every woman can convey and, at the same time, becomes the symbol of the brand’s metamorphosis.
All images are made by Matteo Bellomo exclusively for Vogue. All rights reserved.