Borgo Solomeo, surrounded by nature, colors and Umbrian traditions has always been our inspiration, but this year it has taken on a special value
On the occasion of its debut in the calendar of the Milan Fashion Week, Brunello Cucinelli has chosen to present the new one fall winter 2021 2022 collection with a special event live from Solomeo, a place dear to the maison that created its universe here. Of this important project and of the new one Knitted Season we spoke with Carolina Cucinelli, second child of the king of cashmere who was born and raised in the medieval Umbrian village. We asked her to tell us about the practical and creative difficulties linked to the pandemic and the new needs of the public in terms of clothing, but also of nature, today her primary source of inspiration, and of return to the most authentic values of life which, now more than ever, protect our precious daily life. Here is everything he told us.
Camilla and Carolina Cucinelli © Brunello Cucinelli
Read the interview with Carolina Cucinelli and watch the video by Nima Samiee – exclusively for Vogue – showing the Brunello Cucinelli autumn winter 2021 2022 collection
For the first time, Brunello Cucinelli enters the official MFW calendar with an event from the village of Solomeo. Why this choice, just this year?
We started from the idea of re-establishing direct contact, a bit like it happens during the fashion week in Milan when we have the opportunity to personally meet our journalist friends, and we imagined being able to “invite them home”, albeit through the medium digital, and be able to share with them a piece of our little world in Solomeo. In this way, the digital connection gives us the opportunity to offer something more directly from our village. In line with our usual approach, this is not a real show, but an event that can be a synthesis between the collection and the brand identity.
How did you manage to organize such an event during the pandemic?
Several times during this year we have had to measure ourselves with the desire to bridge the gap with our customers, with the press and, more generally, with the outside world. The closeness, the familiarity and the direct relationship with our interlocutors and our customers has always been a fundamental characteristic of our way of conceiving the company, it is part of our “Italian lifestyle”, where an understanding look, a smile, a firm handshake tell us many more things than many numbers. Technology has helped us to keep in touch, but we tried to interpret it in our own way, we immediately worked to transmit through this medium – very powerful but also a little cold – our distinctive spirit, the warmth and humanity that we grow daily here in the village, and therefore try to establish a direct and dedicated bridge to each of our interlocutors. Within the village of Solomeo, where the monitoring we have set up allows us to work in a “serene” environment, we have set up special places ad hoc for each of our “direct” to be able to talk, discuss important issues, dedicate a special time to each of our interlocutors.
How much has life in Solomeo inspired this collection that speaks of nature and a return to the most authentic values of life?
Certainly a lot. The Solomeo village, surrounded by nature, colors and Umbrian traditions has always been our inspiration, but this year it has taken on a special value. There was no opportunity to travel, so we combined digital research with a more “intimate” question, based on our needs, on our identities, on the values that surround us. With this exercise, concepts such as warmth, comfort and above all elegance naturally emerged, the desire to feel good not only thanks to welcoming materials and shapes but also as aesthetic well-being, expressing a message of rebirth. This is what has guided the creation of our collections, which has given a new value to the values that are the basis of the Brand.
The new collection responds in a concrete way to the complex historical period we are experiencing. What are the distinctive features of the new Brunello Cucinelli wardrobe?
We wanted to call this collection “Knitted Season”, the season of knitwear, because the quality of the natural fibers that the knitting expresses was the main inspiration for the entire collection. In coats, down jackets, suits, dresses, and even in shoes and bags, the quality of the knit spreads a taste that always seems to us to be natural and welcoming, refined and comfortable at the same time. It represents the fulcrum to combine comfort and elegance and look to a new season of rebirth with lasting and at the same time innovative values. At this time when needs blur the barriers between formal world and casual elegance, where outdoor and indoor are aligned through connections that enter our homes or follow the events of the world, we have focused on the idea of feeling well dressed without abandoning the sensation of well-being that we feel the need for.
How did you approach the issue of sustainability?
Our company has always paid particular attention to harmony with nature, both with the territory that surrounds us and inspires us, and with the creation to which we turn our thoughts every time we make an important choice. The fine fibers we select, the craftsmanship that enhances them with meticulous work, the values we want to instill in each garment, the attention to garment repair and custody over time – all our approach to the creation of collections and the relationship with the customer it depends on an upstream choice that depends on respect for others and for nature. In this we are greatly helped by the humanistic approach with which we work at Solomeo, which allows us to feel the value of time, which has always guided us to a sensitive approach.
What are the most representative looks of the collection?
Surely these are the looks where the sweater plays a central role, and not only through the essential shapes or the refined workmanship of the cardigan and pull-over. There are many total-looks and knitted dresses that express the best of the natural qualities of the fibers and the value of craftsmanship. In addition, all the looks directly inspired by the quality of the sweater, above all the match set jacket and trousers in cashmere jersey, which seems to us to best interpret the search for balanced and elegant well-being, with a versatile spirit.
The must-have accessory of the season?
Even in the accessories, the knit has allowed us to create special, unique elements that spread our distinctive spirit even on unusual elements: knitted bags, both in the classic English ribs and in refined hand knitting, seem to continue this common thread comfort, refined value, softness even in feminine accessories. And without forgetting footwear, where the taste of the knit spreads a hint of softness and femininity in sports shoes, and at the same time gives life to new indoor models directly inspired by the classic outdoor winter.
What message would you like to share with this collection?
The message of this collection takes up the message that lies at the heart of the Brunello Cucinelli philosophy with new strength, new values: it is nature that shows us the way, the true inspiring lymph that transmits well-being thanks to its regenerating power. Now more than ever clothing is no longer just a functional or aesthetic element, it now takes on the task of expressing a state of mind, a daily value that can combine pleasure and balance.
Did this experience with digital make you re-evaluate the way to present collections in the future?
We have certainly understood that technology plays a fundamental role in establishing a bridge with the outside world when there is no other possibility that allows it, but we strongly believe that we will meet again. We sincerely need to rediscover social contact, to look each other in the eye and, for this, we will return to dress well for a common pleasure, to celebrate our meetings.