Milan Fashion Week: the “chapter one” of Del Core
We are publishing this article by Angelo Flaccavento for the March issue of Vogue Italia. Photo by Cedric Bouchet, styling Carlos Nazario
It’s all a disruption for now. The business models are infinite, fragmented. The digital immaterial is advancing, and there are even those who propose sales via app, managed directly by customers in connection with the laboratories. Wonderful. Daniel Del Core, on the other hand, thinks analog and enters the international fashion scene, from Milan, with a solid project, traditional in the most progressive sense of the term: the maison, truly understood as a home, complete with a tailor-made couture atelier to welcome customers. It is simply called Of the Core and debuts now, after a full year of gestation.
“I took the time to assemble an international team of talents and artisans. The months of confinement, last spring, were actively explored for this purpose, ”says Daniel, thirty-two, a German with an Apulian grandfather. He looks like an athlete: snappy body, long blonde hair pulled back into a top knot, a surfboard in the office, leaning against the wall, among carnivorous metal flowers and modernist furnishings with a botanical-sci-fi flavor. We are in the studio – top floor, aerial view of the neighborhood. In addition to working in the house, Del Core also lives there: not just a maison, therefore, but a house and a shop. Nothing less disruptive, and perhaps for this reason more disruptive. The simple news of an opening, in the pandemic Milan and in a scenario of general uncertainty, is incredible: it energizes. The scale of the operation is immediately evident: an entire building not far from the Conservatory; a plethora of vehicles and people. Here there is no skimping, nor joking. “I was lucky enough to find an investor who encouraged me to start the project, financed it and left me freedom of action,” says Del Core, cutting it short on the identity of those who support him. Not that it makes a difference. Rather, it is significant that Milan has been chosen as the epicenter and Italy as the territory of one short supply chain of great craftsmanship, from fabrics to manufacturing.
The fact that Del Core has a house, or rather is a house, is not an exclusively narrative element. It is the very structure of the business that solidifies in the building, whose history adds nuance to the project. On the street, elegant and secluded, you can see nothing but the white and chalky solidity of a patrician palace. After the gate, you enter by a side slide once used for carriages. The grand entrance with staircase is in fact on the back, because this was an elite brothel, and the discretion of the customers was maximum. «I like that it is all to be discovered, that the place is not fully revealed at first glance. I want it to be the same for what I create », he continues, accompanying us on tour.
Four floors, plus an underground one, and a lot of people coming and going: highly specialized workers, very busy. There are a few days left for the parade the fruit of the year of work is ripe and reveals itself in its splendor in the proud of embroideries that imitate molds, velvet-lined growths like lamellae of mushrooms, concretions as bright as drops of dew, phytomorphic drapes, vibrating feathers.
Designer Daniel Del Core in his Milanese home-atelier. Long wool coat and vintage felt mushroom hat.
The atelier is bustling with activity, and not only at this juncture: it is the beating heart of the whole company. “It was the first thing I wanted, the most important, because for me the work done with the hands is fundamental,” explains Del Core. “Here we develop the prototypes and it is here that we create the couture part of the collection, that is the special garments that accompany the prêt-à-porter”. The past of Del Core, in whose curriculum one stands out long stay at Gucci as head of special pieces for celebrities and VIPs, it is clear in this direct approach, of moulage rather than design. But with such respect for tradition, it is aesthetics that emerge: powerfully feminine yet completely off in the inspirations. Del Core proposes a mutant glamor, for hyperfeminine women of a new species. The zero collection was born from a reflection on the cycle of eternal creation and destruction that characterizes nature: changes in state, regenerations, transformations, from lava to rocks, from mushrooms to flowers, to molds. All translated into a sumptuous sign instead of an apocalyptic one: we read Adrian – the costume designer of the great Hollywood – in the sinuous lines, the taste of couture in the precious embroideries, in the exclusive fabrics that design mushroom psychedelies. “Nothing is created, nothing is destroyed, everything is transformed”, summarizes Daniel. Perfect metaphor, indeed, of the fashion cycle itself, as well as stimulating brand program: Del Core, in fact, announces not collections but editions, in which each new release complements the previous one instead of making it obsolete. The horizon appears vast, the ambition is burning: a good, regenerative start.
At the opening. Naplak and velvet dress, glasses in Plexiglas and palladium galvanized metal.
All Of The Core. Models: Brynja Mekkin @ Fabbrica, Nyawargak @Select, Justi Ageitos @ Dna.
Hair Marco Braca using May11 hair oil, Vanessa Icareg make-up, Elena Greco manicure, all @ Atomo Management. On set Hotel Production.
Sculpted dress in draped peau de soy and leaf hat.