After the twentieth anniversary celebrations last September, the incubator of emerging talents Fashion East tonight he toasts his next twenty years at London Fashion Week digital. It is certainly no secret that Fashion East is a real hotbed of talent, which has made known names like Kim Jones and Craig Green, Jonathan Anderson and Simone Rocha. This season sees the return of Maximilian Davis, Nensi Dojaka and Goom Heo, but also new entries Jawara Alleyne and HRH.
Up-and-coming star Maximilian Davis continues to develop her own personal stylings. Davis’s work for the London Fashion Week is imbued with an intense sensuality, inspired by party scene of Trinidad in the 70s, counterbalanced by a great elegance and a pomp that takes its cue from the “good” Sunday clothes, such as tuxedo coats, hammered silk minidresses with detachable hood and total look in printed denim. The couture-inspired details are hidden in the construction of the garments, from the hidden buttons to darts. The headdresses are instead the work of Nasir Mazhar.
Dojaka’s 90s-style lingerie dresses created by combining pieces of sheer chiffon, stretch silk, jersey, tulle and organza, are more enchanting than ever in a world where there is an overabundance of loungewear. Each dress appears to present an optimistic outlook for the post-pandemic.
Goom Heo’s latest effort is his strongest collection. The South Korean designer, having fewer resources at her disposal, has chosen to experiment with cuts and fabrics, with very interesting results. A draped cape that looks like a blanket we’ve thrown on our heads seems to represent the existential fear we’ve all experienced over the past 12 months, while a blazer worn over tights reflects how we dress for calls on Zoom, but in a new and electrifying way. . Despite the scarcity of means, the result is important.
HRH designer Hannah, who goes by her first name only, is fascinated by sports uniforms, figure skating to gym. His collection presents this aesthetic vision for the first time to a wider audience. And he hopes this audience will be able to appreciate his passion for decorative elements of sportswear, which he presents with a sparkling capsule.
Instead, Jawara Alleyne’s menswear presents a radical sensuality that stands as a very welcome comfort in our lockdown lives. His collections are an example of true multicultural research, which takes its cue from his childhood in Jamaica and the Cayman Islands but also from his formative years in London. The designer transposes these ideas in a poetic way in his men’s garments through the draperies: fabrics that overflow from the jeans, tops with geometric openings on the chest and tank tops that with an innovative approach ask questions about how the male body should be presented. A free approach, a fresh and new interpretation of contemporary menswear.