The British designer Molly Goddard she has been very busy choosing the colors for the walls, as well as putting the finishing touches on the autumn / winter 2021 collection: her atelier in east London has been repainted to set her film for London Fashion Week. What colour? “A little dull yellow”, he laughs.
“I’m thrilled,” she says Goddard referring to the film starring her new Lina dress (a tulle masterpiece ton sur ton). If we add the fact that the designer is eight and a half months pregnant with her first child, the excitement reaches very high levels. In the days leading up to the film premiere, Vogue asked Goddard to keep a diary on the packaging of the Lina dress to try to answer the questions that have been brewing in our heads since Rihanna was seen in a vibrant Goddard dress in May 2016: like do you make your clothes? And how long does it take?
Two days ago I received a screenshot of a model wearing the finished dress via email, along with a series of highly confidential details concerning all her ‘gears’. Today, however, we feel the old way, that is, on the phone, to find out what are the final touches of all the voluminous dresses by Goddard: spontaneity and immediate joy.
“I like drawing voluminous dresses because the process is immediate compared to the one that involves the creation of a dress, with the packaging and the cotton canvas, then you have to create the test canvas and make 5 distinct fittings ”, explains Goddard. “Often we don’t even do the test canvas for these clothes, we just do them”.
To create a Lina dress it takes more or less a day and a half of work using Italian stiff tulle that the designer usually uses (13 meters of tulle, to be precise). Goddard’s rule of thumb when should you increase the aspect ratio? “Usually, the bigger the dress, especially if it’s tulle, the more I like it. I really like that part of the package that concerns the creation of the volume ”.
But behind the theatrical proportions of the designer’s original and fairytale dresses there are many intricate and hidden details, such as the hand-curled sash-belt. The trick to create the (highly copied) rocking movement typical of Molly Goddard’s dresses? The ruffle hem is joined to a wide bell skirt which is slightly shorter at the front, and all covered with ruffles, “this way you get a floating and irregular silhouette”.
The color, of course, play a leading role. Before Covid-19, the ‘moment of the dress’ signaled the conclusion of Goddard’s shows at LFW and each time, in the front row, the audience gasped as the dress casually walked the runway, white and minimalist, like the first brushstroke of color on the naked canvas. “Color ideas come naturally to me, I think. I don’t think about it too much, ”he adds.
The technique of combining tulle in nuances very close to each other to obtain its models ton-sur-ton and super intricate was first conceived by Goddard for SS21. “This dress is in coral pink, dotted with red on the bust (there is a similar dress in blue and sky blue in the FW21 collection, Ed.) and has a black underskirt ”. The final touch of color is given by a couple of gold-colored platform boots, super sophisticated, a slightly rebellious combination that reflects that playful mood that everyone is missing right now.
“I hope it gets stronger this summer,” and Goddard refers to the collective desire to bring in real life that sense of escape that fashion gives us. “I know it will be like this for me, I’m dying to wear fun things. If I think of all the dresses that I have kept aside for special occasions and that I have never worn … But why do we do it? Never again. I will wear huge ones dressed in taffeta to go everywhere“!