Victoria Beckham she has spent the past six months working on a new chapter of her brand, challenging herself to optimize both her vision and her business. With the autumn winter 2021 season, Beckham introduces a new collection format that incorporates the pre-collection and the proposal ready-to-wear main with in-store deliveries starting in May. This is a consolidated approach that the brand expresses through a more pragmatic reinterpretation of its aesthetics. Both from a visual point of view and from a portability point of view.

The lookbook shows a simplified version of the dresses that symbolize the designer’s stylistic code, essential tailoring and greater attention to denim and knitwear. And while it’s a more commercial proposition than the more experimental design from her past shows, Beckham has no intention of depriving fans of those high style moments they have come to expect from her. Instead, he wants to offer a versatile post-pandemic wardrobe where glamor exists but is easier to ‘adjust the volume’.

Since Christmas, the Beckham family has been in Miami with David busy with Inter Miami, the football club he co-owns. On video call from her temporary home, Victoria – with a put casual made up of a black top and baseball cap – tell Anders Christian Madsen about life in Florida, the new collection and her revisited approach to fashion.

Victoria Beckham fall winter 2021 2022

How is life in Miami?

The way people dress here is unlike anything I’ve ever seen in my entire life. It’s just fantastic and definitely in the ‘less is more ‘. I feel very lucky to be here. David had been missing for a year; he has his own team here and it was difficult to work remotely without spending time with the players. He was used to seeing them every day.

Do you work in Miami now?

Work from home. The children are also at home. In the beginning doing the lessons in DaD was good news but now it has become boring. They study hard. But the time spent in front of the computer screen is really a lot when you consider their age.

What was it like working on the collection from home?

I was in a room and I was divided between calls to London, Paris and Miami. Harper was lecturing in another, and Cruz was studying for exams in yet another room. We often fought to get the best Wi-Fi spot. Let’s just say it was a pretty busy time.

How’s Romeo?

Romeo is here and trains with his team every day. That’s what he wants to do, after all.

Are you thinking of returning to the role of ‘a footballer’s wife’?

No, the only reason I’m wearing my Reebok cap is because I haven’t had time to fix my hair. But tell me, do you miss the fashion shows?

A lot. To you?

I really – really – miss the show so much. Just the other day I remembered when we were in New York; it was a luxury and yet I spent my days stressed and nervous. The whole range of emotions … How much I would give to be able to go back to those days.

What do you miss most?

The luxury of great castings, the whole team, being present really. Back then we didn’t even realize what a privilege it was to be physically together. And then the emotion of every single element of the show: the castings, the music, the set and all these aspects that together created that sense of magic.

Victoria Beckham fall winter 2021 2022

You’re a catwalk fan like me, right?

For me it continues to be the best way to see clothes. I love the challenge of communicating a collection through digital – which is still a very important tool – but, in the heart of my heart, the best format to present a collection is the live fashion show.

Don’t you find physical Fashion Week to be much simpler? It seems to me that the digital format complicates everything enormously.

At the beginning of the Covid emergency, I thought that digital would put everyone on an equal footing. I was thrilled to find out what creative solutions the designers would put in place. Also in terms of commercial strategies because, regardless of the size of your brand, we have all been impressed. People have done crazy things to draw attention to their collections. At one point, there was even talk of having to move the sofa at home to make room for a giant screen, or whatever had been sent to you for the presentation of the collection. I am not in a position to do something like that. And that’s why we came up with the idea of ​​this “hybrid collection”.

What is a “hybrid collection”?

It is a proposal between the pre-collection is that ready-to-wear main. It is focused yet broad at the same time as it spans an entire season with various drop. There is almost an element of the format see-now-buy-now. We sell it now and the first part will hit stores in May.

What has changed?

Being here in Miami made me realize the importance of clothes seasonless and knowing how to wear clothes in layers. Because, if you think about it, the collections arrive in stores at the same time all over the world. Now I’m in Miami and it’s very hot but in the UK it’s freezing cold.

Victoria Beckham fall winter 2021 2022

What do you think of the concept of pre-collection?

I’ve always been a fan of pre-collections. In fact, if I have to tell you the truth, they are my favorites. Everything must always be accessible and portable – including the collections that show on the catwalk – but, although there is less pressure on pre-collection, these must never seem like a compromise. Mine have never been. They are as captivating as the main ones.

Is the new collection more commercial?

There is an element that we could define as commercial, which, in my opinion, is not bad at all. In recent seasons, we have introduced several proposals in denim and knitwear and we have had great feedback. We started the year in a great way. Of course our stores are closed but we have good sales through e-commerce. That’s because we work hard, listening to our customer community and figuring out what they want to wear.

Something more pragmatic?

It’s not that they don’t want to dream. They do. But you can also do it with an impeccably cut pair of jeans, a jeweled boot and a floral coat. It never has to be boring. But it must remain portable.

Is this your take on post-lockdown clothing?

They ask me if I think we will buy less when we get out of the lockdown. I hope! Do not misunderstand me. I want to sell clothes – that’s undeniable – but I want people to invest in clothes they really want to wear. Buy a suit and make the most of it. Don’t buy for just one season.

These floral prints have something of a rebel.

Matching contrasting floral prints shouldn’t work. But it is a combination that I love very much. We offer it in version full look but, in everyday life, you can break it up and wear the coat over a pair of jeans or the floral trousers combined with a sweater. It is funny. The important thing is that it is never boring. As for the goldfish print, I find it very chic but with a playful element.

Those goldfish are very Art Deco.

Very Miami!

Victoria Beckham fall winter 2021 2022

With this new business model, do you find that the collection represents you in a more personal way?

Each collection is about me and what I would wear. But, certainly, Covid has led us to take a closer look at the brand and the garments we create and always ask ourselves: is this what the customer wants?

Yours is a brand based essentially on clothing. Is it a piece of clothing that people still buy?

Absolutely yes! I don’t know if they wear them to feel beautiful at home or if they save them for when they come out. But what I can tell you is that they buy them. I notice that people are buying less tailoring and a lot more denim and knitwear. And how do you make these clothing categories captivating and desirable? With flawless execution.

I heard from couturier that even evening dresses continue to be sold …

I heard it too but I don’t know.

Don’t you buy high fashion?

No. Unfortunately not.

Victoria Beckham fall winter 2021 2022

Now that I think about it, the new collection is very “ready-to-wear”, ready to use, in the most literal sense of the expression. Do you agree?

I sell clothes. It is the principle to which I entrust every decision in my work. I don’t sell that many bags and shoes so the clothing collection can be a mere formal exercise. For me, it’s about making clothes that people really want – and can – wear. It is for this reason that ‘commercial’ has no negative connotations for me.

How does this translate into the collection?

Has a mood more relaxed. The details we were so obsessed with in the past are diminishing. To be honest, we were no longer in a position to keep it. Also, I really love this sense of freedom. It is more eclectic. I don’t like unnecessary complications. Execution is everything. I want it to enhance the silhouette and for my clients to feel good in my clothes. Without overcomplicating.

Kind of a lockdown mantra, right?

During the lockdown, my typical ‘uniform’ consisted of a pair of jeans and a T-shirt. And you know what? After the lockdown, the first day I went to the atelier, I wore those same jeans with an oversized, open, men’s shirt, a pair of heels and a nice bag. Of course, wearing those jeans I put on every day made me feel safe. But I also wanted to refine the look. That’s how those sparkling boots were born. Now, tell me the truth: do you have a pair of dress pants or sweatpants and you pretend to be a work version?

I have a real pair of pants!

I’m glad to hear you say that!

This interview was originally published on Vogue UK.

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