The evolutions of the best beauty looks of the fashion shows they are many. From the birth of grunge in the 90s to the nuances of gender outlines and the celebrations of diversity that we see on the runways today, the landscape is constantly changing. As we reflect and react to the climate we live in, with trends that come and go, they are just those incredible beauty moments that remain etched in our mind forever. In this article, Vogue, lists the best ever.
1. Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis, spring summer 1993
And the 1992 and fashion is still trying to get through the 80s – padded straps, power
dressing, backcombed hair and glam makeup. And here it comes Marc Jacobs with his Dr Martens, plaid shirts and dresses petticoats comfortable for spring-summer 93’s Perry Ellis. Inspired by the music scene underground of Seattle, models were sent on the runway with tousled hair, flushed cheeks, bare lips and arched eyebrows – it was a look nonconformist and anti-glam. “I wanted them to look like they do when I’m on the street, not in shooting,” Jacobs said in an interview with the New York Times. The show was a resounding failure and Jacobs came fired, yet it was a crucial moment for both the world of fashion and that of beauty, which triggered a new mood: a state of mind that celebrated the counterculture, authenticity and individuality, and which has inspired entire generations to come.
2. Maison Margiela fall winter 1995
In the era of supermodels and super designers, Martin Margiela thought mainly about clothes and the ideas behind them, cultivating an air of mystery and anonymity with his white coats, ghost labels and his famous refusal to any kind of interview.
His autumn winter 1995 collection is a clear example of this, with the introduction of the mask Margiela. Made in shocking pink, dark blue, black and burgundy, stripped the wearer of their identity – irony absolutely captured by Kanye West when she decided to wear a pearl-encrusted version a few years later. Although in common use nowadays, the masks would go against any cultural stimulus of the moment – an era defined by logo mania, tabloid news, rap music and vip culture. Therefore, it marked a pivotal moment in beauty, with a feeling particularly relevant in 2021.
3. Thierry Mugler, autumn winter 1997 Haute Couture
Thierry Mugler AW97 couture
© Pierre Vauthey
Thierry Mugler was one of those designers who knew how to exploit the power of make-up to tell a story. For her Fall Winter 1997 couture show, it was the Metamorphosis by Kafka, which culminated in the transformation of the model Adriana Karembeu in a mutant creature – half animal, half alien – with a feather headdress, contact lenses supernatural yellows, burgundy lips and shimmering eyeshadows in shades of blue and green. A departure from using makeup as a means of enhancing beauty, Mugler set a precedent for future generations.
4. John Galliano, spring summer 2004 Haute Couture
Christian Dior Spring 2004 Couture
© Condé Nast Archive
For his spring-summer 2004 show, John Galliano took us toAncient Egypt. With the help of his longtime collaborator Pat McGrath, the models were transformed into golden goddesses and queens in the Cleopatra style. Glitter eyeshadows that go all the way to the drawn brows, extra-large golden lashes, shimmering lips, strategically placed jewels and bits of metallic mesh placed under the eyes, adorning the ears and accentuate the chin. It was one masterclass on the art of creativity – one we are still learning from.
5. Alexander McQueen, fall winter 2009
Alexander McQueen autumn winter 2009
© Victor Virgile
“I find beauty in grotesque, ”He once said Alexander McQueen in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar. “I have to force people to observe things.” That desire for shock and comparing has given rise to some of the best beauty looks (certainly among the most subversive) in fashion. In particular, the white ghost faces, the bleached eyebrows and thick lips, glossy from clown of autumn-winter 2009 made by Peter Philips.
There was something about fetishist and deeply perverse in that combination, offset by the sculptural hairstyles of Guido Palau, which he made with garbage bags. It was a moment resounding, in which anyone who had ever felt ugly or poorly integrated found reference – as well as a moment that lives through the subculture of misfits and the kids of the Instagram era.
6. Vetements, spring summer 2015
© Courtesy Vetements
Disciple of Margiela Demna Gvasalia’s Vetements has kicked off a new one mood, introducing irony, utilitarianism and a kind of anti-fashion fashion. As for the beauty, the models were stray cats – a response to the supermodels of the moment – neglected, with unkempt hair and angular features. It was a question of authenticity and idiosyncrasy, which defined the homogeneity of the Kardashian Era and the unbridled selfie culture that was garnering more and more acclaim.
7. Charles Jeffrey, spring summer 2018 men’s collection
For his solo debut, the stylist menswear Scottish Charles Jeffrey presented a love letter to London children from the 80s, reinterpreting it for the Instagram era. A riot of colors and kindergarten nostalgia, the models were paraded covered by scribbles children, painted faces, handmade decorations and scraps of adhesive tape. A playful point of view of masculinity seen through the lens of culture queer, in response to the conversation about gender fluidity that was occurring in major media, thus setting a precedent for stylists such as Art School, Eckhaus Latta, Vaquera and anyone else who followed the trend.
8. Savage X Fenty, fall winter 2018
Slick Woods walks the runway for the Savage X Fenty Autumn / Winter 2018
© Brian Ach
For a long time, the call to the diversity went unheard – until, of course, the arrival of Rihanna, which showed the industry that this is how it’s done. Against the backdrop of a garden of Eden, people of all shapes, sizes, colors, gender identities and sexual orientations stormed the runway for the debut of Savage X Fenty, the singer’s brand. From Paloma Elsesser and Jazzelle Zanaughtti to a ninth month pregnant Slick Woods, beauty was represented in all its forms, in what was a cultural turning point for both the fashion and beauty worlds.