From the 20s fashion trends that inspired the looks of Spring Summer 2020
The background is the Le Boeuf sur le Toit nightclub in Paris. The background, the jazz music of Jelly Roll Morton. And then the dance. Fringes is sequins very bright. Sliding lines for the dresses, finally uncovered legs and vertiginous necklines on the back. Hair a la garçonne. They are the ‘roaring Twenties’ that are back in vogue again, in a modern version, on the catwalks Spring Summer 2021. Here is the trend in detail.
The flapper dress
It is undoubtedly the symbolic dress of the 1920s. It takes its name from the women who wore it, the flapper girls, and is characterized by a straight and wide silhouette with a low waist that falls below the knee. The model designed for daywear – made popular by Coco Chanel – had sleeves and a pleated or flounced skirt in cotton jersey. The one made for the evening – much loved by the French couturier Paul Poiret – was covered with rhinestones, layers of fringes or rich embroidery with Art Déco motifs. This silhouette allowed women to move freely and sparkle on the dance floor.
This dress inspired the maison Chanel, which brought to the catwalk a creation characterized by hypnotic feathers and pleated flounces on the skirt, and by small bright details on the top.
Chanel Spring Summer 2021
The slipped line
It is a straight silhouette that does not touch the hips and which characterized most dresses in the 1920s. On all lengths.
The typical silhouette of the 1920s invades the clothes of Chloé. The version of the brand is declined in pastel tones and enriched with lace and pleats.
Chloé Spring Summer 2021
With the loose silhouette and short hems of the flapper dress, women needed new undergarments to wear. They had finally said goodbye to corsets and, thus, a new, much simpler garment was born. The undergarment consisted of a short non-fitting petticoat, often made of satin or silk crepe de chine, and decorated with lace.
Alberta Ferretti brings to the catwalk a sensual dress made in impalpable fabrics and precious lace that seem inspired by the world of retro lingerie.
Alberta Ferretti Spring Summer 2021
Vaporose, hypnotic, with a spectacular effect. This décor, very common in the 1920s, characterized, in particular, the most luxurious evening dresses and outerwear.
The hood of Saint Laurent, with feathers on the hem, recalls the overcoats that flapper girls wrapped themselves in, and, why not, the seductive loungewear they wore in private.
Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2021
The Robe de Style
Alongside the flapper dress, another much more elegant dress was also widespread: the ‘robe de style’. Launched by Jeanne Lanvin in the early 1900s, it featured a low-rise, full skirt and ankle-grazing.
Jeanne Lanvin’s Atelier
© Roger Viollet
Lanvin relaunches that historic dress in a new version. The skirt is shorter and lighter, and is characterized by flounces. The top has a new design and is enriched with luminous applications.
Lanvin Spring Summer 2021
The ‘tennis dress’ for daywear
In the 1920s, tennis was the most popular sport, and thus, its uniform was worn both on and off the court. According to historical sources, it was the French couturier Jean Patou who designed the first tennis skirt. In any case, he brought sportswear into everyday fashion and, according to the New York Times, was “the first designer to put his initials on clothes”.
Thom Browne seems to be inspired by the 1920s tennis outfits for her outfit. From the silhouette to the lengths, everything takes us back to the Roaring Twenties.
Thom Browne Spring Summer 2021
Long cardigan and knee-length skirt
Although named after the Earl of Cardigan, the modern cardigan owes its birth to Coco Chanel. The designer, a lover of freedom of movement, was won over by the simplicity and comfort of the knitted vests that aristocratic men wore, and was inspired by this idea for her creation.
The combination of ‘cardigan + midi skirt’ by Fendi it is a clear reference to the first knitted suits of the 1920s. With the difference that today we play with see-through effects and laser-cut materials.
Fendi Spring Summer 2021