Kim Jones presented her first women’s collection for the Fendi couture show, inspired by her eternal fascination with Bloomsbury Group, which he mixed with the codes of the maison and with his own heritage Italian, and with some elements inspired by Karl Lagerfeld.
A series of suit, capes and evening dresses in shadowy and romantic hues that embraced different eras and mixed genres – one of the central themes of Virginia Woolf Orlando. An approach that echoed in co-ed and intergenerational casting (Kate and Lila Grace Moss, Christy and James Turlington, Demi Moore and Scout Willis).
Sam McKnight with Lila Grace and Kate Moss
© Nikolai von Bismarck
Then, of course, there were the hair, and the makeup, fundamental to give life to all these inspirations. The hairstylist Sam McKnight wanted to convey the idea of fluidity, both of time and of gender, in hairstyles, thanks to various variations of wet look.
Bella Hadid at the Fendi Couture show
© Getty Images
“For many of the hair references we were inspired by photographs from Bloomsbury Set”, Says a Vogue on the telephone. “But we didn’t want them to be too ‘vintage’, so we created a wet look, as if the models had been surprised by rain in the garden. The hair is combed in a kind of collected chignon, but the hair is so wet that it starts to come apart. More than a mood, or a studied look, it’s a moment “.
Among the other key elements are the soft waves on the front for some of the models and models, in order to create a kind of synergy between genres, and precious hair accessories decorated with Venetian glass beads. For the Fendi couture fashion show the makeup artist Peter Philips he wanted to play with pearlescent textures around the eyes and create light spots on the face. “It was all about reflexes,” he says. “A look that looked wet without being wet. A look that expressed strength and fragility “.
Naomi Campbell at the Fendi Couture fashion show
© Getty Images
As for the fusion of genres, Philips was careful not to be too artificial or too conceptual, opting instead for a fiery red lipstick for some of the men, and a little bit of gloss very natural for women. “Discreet but elegant,” he explains. The end result is poetic and intensely emotional, a mood which, we are sure, will faithfully accompany Jones also for the next seasons.