Schiaparelli Haute Couture reinterprets its heritage through sartorial experimentation
Daniel Roseberry he is a demiurge of sensitivity, a brilliant mind in the concept, with roots planted in tradition and branches reaching out towards an unstoppable future. In the collection Haute Couture spring summer 2021, the heritage Schiaparelli returns more prominent than ever, marking the designer’s ascension to the role of fabric artist. The starting idea is that of a sculptural fashion: the dress retains the essence of the material, which is ductile, malleable, is the marble of the designer who projects on it images destined to remain unchanged and unchangeable over the years.
Respecting this fil rouge with clarity and exceptional coherence, each creation stands as part of a pictorial exhibition of the body and its infinite possibilities: it is living in a dress that gives it life, meaning, magic. The pomposity that is the bride and emblem ofHigh fashion is here denied, in favor of a futuristic aesthetic that opens from the physical to space and infinity, translating the imagination into the concrete dimension and allowing inspiration to play on the proportions of the bust, legs and shoulders, in a architectural construction and majestic beauty.
THE bustier they are the recovery of classicism: engraved like shields, chiseled like statues and finished with glossy lacquers or gold leaf, they support the soft trunk, shape it and serve as the basis for a volumetric exploration with skirts and trousers. The latter are also subject to experimentation, which starts from the exoskeleton of seams, finishes and elastic inserts to lead to an all-encompassing originality – i trousers in blouson leather, they have an elastic waistband, the cream-colored denim jeans are in faded and double-faced duchesse silk, embellished with hanging golden padlocks. A recovery of the ancient canons it is also found in blouses and capes, a mixture of Hellenic proportions and Baroque quirks.
The taffeta it is crunchy and articulated like a scarf. The black jersey with golden zipper – a brazen provocation to the dictates of tailoring that abjures the practical and functional element in favor of excess craftsmanship – is decorated with a three-dimensional and Giottesque reference to the holiness of the mother who breastfeeds her child, disarming simplicity brought here to the heights of artistic inspiration, to the empyrean of the sacred accentuated by the metallic halo.
A casual theatricality is perceived in the column dress with black and gold animal print, in maxi shocking bow that interrupts and at the same time seals the creation with a rigid black corset and mermaid skirt, while a vast drape of pink velvet hangs from hoop earrings in celebration of the curtain and the mysticism that lies behind the stage curtain. The woven wool cape is perfect, studded with thousands of gold beads, which evokes a archival model from 1938, with hood embroidered in the shape of a hair.
Powerful and voracious is the technique, which incorporates the form at the expense of the substance. Embroidery is the protagonist, decoration and homage to craftsmanship, which works with neoprene as much as silk faille and printed leather. White, black and gold dominate the scene, with the inevitable concession to the tone born from the mind of madame Elsa: the pink Schiaparelli.
It ends with jewelry and accessories. Human physicality is the hinge that supports the references, with lace-up shoes surmounted by a metal plate in gold traced in low relief on the profile of the fingers; the glasses are pearl eyes and glass boules, with rings that are surrealist fingers and claws, improbably long, disobedient to the rules of gravity. The measure of the collection is the meter tied at the waist that becomes a belt, with the padlock that closes the casket in the form of a precious minaudière.
Magic behind the magic, craftsmanship behind the vanity of style, thought, idea and culture behind creation, the Haute Couture collection by Schiaparelli it is a parade of unusual beauty that knows how to be new despite having a history, which knows the meaning of originality despite the past exploration of all aesthetic boundaries, it is fashion that appropriates the connotation of an art form against every (ir) reasonable doubt.