Shirts are the star of the season according to Dolce & Gabbana
Drawing on tradition to create ever new forms is one of the great skills of Dolce & Gabbana, constantly aimed at the Italian aesthetic heritage and its inexhaustible elements of inspiration. For thewinter 2020 2021, the collection focuses on a principle of craftsmanship and sartorial savoir faire, adapting some classics of male dress to the female wardrobe, from the double-breasted suit to the pinstriped trousers. In particular, a garment stands out for its versatility and trans-seasonal character: the shirt.
Simple in appearance but characterized by a ductility that allows it to be adapted to any type of cut, color and material, the Dolce & Gabbana shirt it is a horizon to be discovered, with extra lengths that transform it into a dress, a rigid and linear design that recalls men’s shirts, floral decorations for a touch of baroque flair and an inevitable profusion of lace that recalls the typical tatting Sicilian. To be considered not only for the cold months but also for the imminent arrival of the springhere how to wear and match shirts according to Dolce & Gabbana.
Tailored shirts worn with blazers and suits
The most essential and faithful interpretation to the models of the origins is certainly that tailoring, a warm and heartfelt tribute to a daily routine of laundry hanging out in the sun and Sunday lunches, when without delay the elusive good dress is shown off. Taking a cue from the leaders of the vintage menswear and referring in particular to the elegant and rigorous clothing of the man of southern Italy of the past, many of them shirts proposals by designers are in pure white, with a rigid, minimal cut, defined by the high lapel collar and starched consistency.
For them, the designers choose a formal ensemble reminiscent of themale dress: the matching trousers are soft and wide, in total-black, with rich inserts of crystals or made of transparent satin to give movement, which is combined with a jacket with sash or a bustier in ton sur ton. Trait d’union is the presence of a beret worn sideways, I remember dating without a mobile phone in which the lover waits – shoulder on the wall, legs crossed and ear of corn in the mouth. The only concession to paradigmatic details of femininity is the spun and embroidered workmanship of collar and cuffs, peeking out in look with black wool jacket, matching pants and amphibians.
For a professional day or an unconventional evening that plays on androgyny and the fluidity of dressing without barriers, the white Dolce & Gabbana shirt it must necessarily be inserted in an outfit with a masculine approach, daring instead on the accessory that can vary from ankle boot in winter to a jewel décolleté for spring.
The long shirt to wear as a dress
In childhood it is almost a transitional rite to wear the loose shirts of one’s father, identifying with old-time ladies with infinite trains and shoes without numbers as large as the desire to grow up. Dolce & Gabbana they want to give us an emotional wardrobe capable of triggering similar nostalgia, with long shirts to wear as a dress. Without giving up their sensual heritage and that pinch of Made in Italy provocation that enhances the shapes born from spaghetti (thanks, Sophia Loren), the oversized shirt is worn with the bodice.
The mix is irreverent, a perfect blend of the masculine element with the feminine one, and the result is a hybrid trend of lingerie and high fashion destined to accompany us for the next seasons. Several proposals from the designers: on the one hand, the extra wide fit of the men’s shirt is contained by the narrow and shaped corset, in white satin, inside which is inserted a tie with a polka dot pattern. On the other, it is the overlap to be the master, with different geometric prints in black and white, placed one above the other, resulting in a splendid alternation of volumes accentuated by the black bodice. Finally, for lovers of a more dynamic simplicity and adapted to the needs of metropolitan life, there is the long dress in white cotton, short above the knee or long to the ankles, proposed in both cases with one black jacket that accompanies the design over the entire length.
For this unconventional version, the shirt lends itself to different combinations, from those seen on the catwalk to more experimentations. casual, with over-the-knee boots, bright tights, single-color blazers or floral patterns for the summer, all to be enhanced with bright accessories, from the important and maxi bijoux to the precious bag, ending with the must-have charming shoe with sculpture heel or jewel details.
The baroque shirts with lace and ruffles
There Sicily and its Bourbon DNA explode in shirts rich in rouches and majestic lace, impeccable examples of how the national costume can fit into the contemporary wardrobe while remaining flawless. The allure of the models is regal, haughty, with veins of pomp and well-balanced flair in harmonious outfits. Reflecting those who are winter trends and anticipating the romantic mood of spring summer, these garments are made up of typical traits of a fashion between the end of the nineteenth and the beginning of the twentieth century.
The puff sleeves they are associated with tight cuffs and a crust border that recalls the frayed edges of pies; the waist is shaped, narrow, underlined by transparent lace bands or by floating flounces and ruffles. THE collars they are alternately tall and elegant and enriched by a bow, with a slight boat cut decorated with bobbin buds, surrounded by wide lapels or even with a V-neck from which a cascade of layers of Sangallo lace starts. In this case, the combination is kept sober with black knit shorts or sheer black tights with embroidered flowers, all sealed by a refined black heel.
To modulate every single garment and insert it into impeccable outfits, the rule is to follow aretro inspiration, relying on the wise advice of yesterday’s women who combined lace with yellow gold jewelry, which always associated a touch of black with white to soften its excessive brilliance, favoring everything at the same time poetic, artistic and functional. For this, the lace shirt goes with the black midi skirt in winter as much as hers mini version or with shorts in the warm months, opting for simple fabrics without embroidery or eccentric workmanship. Who prefers the pants has the double alternative of the high-waisted palazzo, creating a chromatic continuum with the shoe that blends at the hem, elongating the figure, or that of the skinny model, to be worn with calf or knee boots. Extra points for those who dare on the accessory, choosing, as they teach Dolce & Gabbana, an ‘wide black bag with tricot texture.
Floral shirts for day and evening
That the Floreal patterns are undisputed masters of the spring territory is a fact, but that lush roses also bloom on winter garments is quite another story. Dolce & Gabbana they never give up the bucolic element in their collections, with foliage and iridescent petals that bloom in haute couture as in prêt-à-porter. If on the one hand the flower on cold days it is a gamble, on the other hand it is a master stroke that combines the courage to dare with the stylistic foresight of future trends. For this, one flowered shirt it is a categorical imperative of every wardrobe, even more so if conceived à la Dolce & Gabbana.
For the winter collection, the designers are not limited to articulated embroidery, which is still present and beautifully executed, but they delight in sculpture in creating three-dimensional shirts from which cherry-red bushes spread. The rose therefore comes to life, as it does on the gray walls of the countryside or between the bricks of castles in the air of couture reveries, detaching itself from the white poplin base and reaching outwards. Not least is the stem and leaf in dusty emerald green, which follows the motion of the corolla by launching outwards. There embroidered roseon the contrary, it finds three-dimensionality in the juxtaposition with a lace petticoat, which infuses the cotton of the shirt with movement, and with a black satin bustier, which brings its prosperous shape back to the female body.
During the day, it is worn nonchalantly on the jeans, choosing a lace-up shoe or an amphibian that gives the whole a sportier aesthetic. For the evening we stay on the lace and petticoat suggested by the maison, with a kitten heel in the sanguine shades of the flower.
A lesson in life and style, the Dolce & Gabbana shirt conveys a message of disguised simplicity and a total desire to express creativity: like every artist, each of us needs only a blank canvas to release our personality and let ourselves go to the imagination.