On the second day of the Paris Fashion Week dedicated to the new collections of Men fashion autumn winter 2021 2022, we meet on zoom Jonathan Anderson which, a few hours before the official release, tells us all the news on next season’s looks.
«When I had to prepare the collection, I asked myself: what is my fantasy for 2021? How could it be the new chapter of JW Anderson? “
THE 37 looks designed by Jonathan Anderson, for the new men’s fall winter 2021 2022 and women’s pre-fall 2021 collections, were photographed by Juergen Teller in his London studio.
“I was looking for someone who could take pictures, which looked like still life but were at the same time very real, for glorify the simple everyday things by turning them into something beautiful. », Anderson told us explain the choice of the German photographer. “Jurgen’s gaze is very human and incredibly honest towards the reality he represents, there is no trick and there is no deception, the characters are what they are, as well as the clothes are what they are. This idea has been part of the DNA of the JW Anderson brand from the very beginning: a shearling top is a shearling top, a pair of purple pants is a pair of purple pants, there is nothing to intellectualize around that, fashion is an instinctive act“.
The looks of the new JW Anderson collections, presented at Paris Fashion Week, are represented with extreme reality on the concrete surfaces of Teller’s photographic studio, with the addition of a pinch of irreverent optimism given by the use of vegetables and plants as accessories and playful tools of the set. “I think Jurgen is very good at photographing people’s optimism, without them being silly.”
The 2021 women’s resort collection is worn by actress Sophie Okonedo, known to most for its role in Netflix series Ratched, by Ryan Murphy. “Juergen and I are obsessed with her and it was interesting to see her transform into one of Juergen’s characters in front of the camera lens; It’s fascinating to see such a talented person letting go on set, ”Anderson confessed to us.
The fruits and vegetables used as props for the photos, we also find them in the form of prints and patterns of the collection. “Looking at the still lifes of Dutch painting of the 1600s, I found myself thinking about why historically man admired these paintings representing plants […] I was looking for something that represented the idea of a tangible reality, take something common and glorify it. And that’s what brought me to Juergen. “
Among the most interesting pieces of the collection we note gods colorful fur tops which, we later discover, have been made with scraps of recovered shearling and colored with hair dye. “We had many pieces of old shearling in stock and I wanted to create something by literally putting two skins together, I liked the idea of imagining tops as if they were part of the hairstyle“.
A recurring element in many looks of the collection are a pair of sculptural trousers with large side panels. “For the cotton flannel pants, I wanted something structured. Right now it’s almost all deconstructed and in the future, perhaps, the novelty will be to return to more structured garments. »Explains Anderson. “As well as shirts, which I find extremely interesting because it can be formal and informal, military or street. I wanted to take these things, which are not very exciting, and make them blossom into something beautiful ».
The 37 photos in the collection were printed on 19 double-sided posters to concretize the images into something physical and real, each image is annotated with captions by Juergen referring to the opposite side of the poster to spread a fun conceptual confusion.
Our chat with Jonathan Anderson ends exactly as it began, looking to the future with clarity and optimism. “This collection represents a clear beginning of the year for me and I hope that, step by step, maybe in June, September or when it will be in 2022, I will be able to return to the catwalk”.