Alessandro Sartori, in his fifth year of artistic direction of the brand, welcomes us together with a small number of journalists in the Zegna headquarters in via Savona in Milan. Sartori explains that the choice of a phygital presentation was planned right away because, despite the desire to show the collection live was still great, they realized that the new technological tools and languages add an extra value to the traditional fashion show, arriving at a more direct approach with the final consumer.
Sartori tells us about “Zoomwear” to indicate the clothing of a contemporary man who, between one video call and another, merges public and private, relaxation and work, in a completely new everyday life that is inevitably reflected on the modern wardrobe. (RE) SET, the title of the Ermenegildo Zegna winter 2021 collection, presented at Milan Fashion Week. A reset that rewrites men’s clothing once again, following the spirit of adaptation of today’s man.
“We are all living a different reality characterized by new needs that lead us towards a form never seen before in terms of lifestyles and attitudes. It is exactly in a moment like this, in which everything is called into question, that we at Zegna have decided to make a (RE) SET and look to the origins to reinterpret our stylistic codes in order to reconceive the style of contemporary man. Our public and private merge and give life to a new way of dressing, in which comfort and style are integrated to create a new aesthetic”, Says Alessandro Sartori.
A collection focused primarily on fabric, which composes new garments with an articulated design but free from all internal layers. A new generation jersey in 100% cashmere, also gives the outerwear a more comfortable and practical feeling, versatile for the indoor and outdoor life. The traditional fabrics of the male wardrobe are reinterpreted with the jacquard technique in coats, chore jackets and trousers of different weights but with the same appearance, made in recycled wool, carrying on the discourse of the brand “UseTheExisting”.
A collection “Fluid” and “modular”, as Sartori defines it, which in addition to proposing men’s clothing from genderless fit, is structured by families of natural colors and materials that allow combine a limited number of garments in multiple silhouettes. The modern dress is comfortable and versatile; the volumes of jackets and shirt-jackets are relaxed and are combined with long trousers, or even in layering with blousons and dressing gown overcoats to be closed with the belt.
An important part of the Ermenegildo Zegna winter 2021 collection is knitwear which, in addition to stealing the place of under-jacket from the shirt, is also proposed with constructions articulated by panels of different weights, overlapping as in a double-breasted. Also accessories are reinvented looking at practicality: the 24-hour bag is soft in suede and rolls up together with the newspaper, the slip-on shoes are in cashmere felt with rubberized sole.
In fashion film presented at Milan Fashion Week, models and models with the looks of the new collection walk along corridors and urban catwalks following the anatomy of a city in the making. The same looks are projected into the interior spaces of an ideal home and rediscovered through a more intimate vision. Exteriors and interiors intertwine endlessly until, the revelation of the shooting set symbolically suspends time, in a moment of (RE) SET from which we are ready to start again.